The temperature on 3D printers can go pretty high, but in some cases, you might want to increase the temperature past what is the usual maximum point. I decided to write an article teaching you how to increase the max temperature on a 3D printer whether it’s the Ender 3 or another machine.
What is the Max Temperature for the Ender 3? How Hot Can it Get?
The max temperature for the Ender 3 stock hot end is 280°C, but other limiting factors such as the PTFE tubing and the capacity of the firmware make the 3D printer get as hot as 240°C. Going any higher than 260°C will require you to make firmware changes and upgrade the PTFE tube for higher heat resistance.
Although the manufacturer states that the Ender 3’s maximum hot end temperature is 280°C, it’s actually not quite true.
The 280°C temperature limit is not considering other limiting factors that prevent the Ender 3 from really reaching this temperature during printing, and rather the temperature the heat block can reach.
It’s basically stating the highest capability of the hot end itself without taking into account the capacity of other essential components, such as the PTFE tube or the firmware. The thermistor also needs an upgrade for higher temperatures because the stock one can’t withstand more than 300°C.
Something like the POLISI3D T-D500 Thermistor from Amazon is said to have a high temperature resistance of 500°C.
You shouldn’t print with the Ender 3’s stock PTFE tube at a temperature above 240°C without upgrading to Capricorn PTFE Tubing, and maybe a higher quality hotend.
The safe temperature for the stock PTFE tube is 240°C due to the components it’s made from. If you increase the temperature beyond that, the stock Ender 3’s PTFE tube would start to deform gradually.
This would go on until toxic fumes are emitted from the component and cause a potential health concern.
If your main printing materials are PLA and ABS, you shouldn’t need to go any higher than 260°C with the hot end. If you want to print advanced materials like Nylon on your Ender 3, you want to make some changes will I’ll explain further down this article.
How Hot Can the Ender 3 Bed Get?
The Ender 3 bed can get as hot as 110°C, allowing you to print a wide variety of filaments comfortably, such as ABS, PETG, TPU, and Nylon with the exception of PLA as it does not require a heated bed. Using an enclosure and a thermal insulation pad under the bed can help it heat up quicker.
I wrote an article on the 5 Best Ways How to Insulate a 3D Printer Heated Bed, so check that out for getting a more efficient heating up of your 3D printer’s bed.
While the stock Ender 3 uses an integrated heat bed to provide better adhesion to prints and promote print quality, you might want to look into the best print bed surfaces for even better results.
Check out my in-depth guide on the topic Comparing Different Bed Surfaces.
How Do You Increase the Max Temperature of a 3D Printer?
The best way to increase the max temperature of a 3D printer is to replace its stock hot end with an all-metal hot end and a high quality heat break. You then also have to make firmware changes in order to manually raise the maximum temperature limit for the 3D printer.
We’re going to break this down into two separate sections, so you can find the information easier to implement. The following is what you’ll need to do to increase the maximum temperature of your 3D printer:
- Upgrade the Stock Hot End With an All-Metal Hot End
- Install a Bi-Metal Copperhead Heat Break
- Flash the Firmware
Upgrade the Stock Hot End With an All-Metal Hot End
Upgrading the stock Ender 3 hot end with an all-metal one is one of the best ways you have for increasing the printer’s max temperature.
There are generally plenty of other benefits that come in the wake of this hardware replacement, so you’re really looking at a worthy upgrade here.
I strongly recommend going with the Micro Swiss All-Metal Hot End Kit on Amazon. It’s priced affordably for the value it’s providing and is basically one of the best upgrades for the Creality Ender 3.
As opposed to the stock Ender 3 hot end, the Micro Swiss all-metal hot end consists of a titanium heat break, an improved heater block, and is able to reach higher temperatures with the 3D printer.
In addition, it’s also easy to install and does not require any complicated configuration. You can use the component will all of the different variants of the Creality Ender 3, including the Ender 3 Pro and the Ender 3 V2.
Another benefit of the Micro Swiss All-Metal Hot End is that the nozzle is wear-resistant and allows you to print with abrasive materials, such as Carbon Fiber and Glow-in-the-Dark.
The video below by My Tech Fun goes through the process to raise your temperature to 270°C by upgrading the hotend and editing the firmware. He does a great job explaining every detail so you can follow along easily.
Speaking of the nozzle, you’ve got anti-clog and anti-leak features as well, both of which make 3D printing very enjoyable and professional. Clogging is a major concern in printing, but definitely not for the Micro Swiss hot-end.
Since the Micro Swiss hot end is a couple of millimeters shorter than the stock Ender 3 hot end, make sure that you level the bed after the installation and run PID tuning for the best results.
Install a Bi-Metal Heat Break
The heat break on a 3D printer is an important component that reduces how far heat travels from the heater block to the parts above it. You can get yourself a high quality Bi-Metal Copperhead Heat Break from Slice Engineering to install on your hotend.
It’s stated to eliminate heat creep which can clog your hotend, as well as being rated up to 450°C. You can even check compatibility with a list of 3D printers on the website so you know you’re getting the right size. For the Ender 3, the C E heat break is the right one.
The following video walks you through the installations steps of this component on the Creality Ender 3.
Flash the Firmware
Flashing the firmware is an important step to reaching higher temperatures on your Ender 3. This is done through downloading the latest Marlin release from the GitHub repository and using Arduino software to make edits to the firmware.
After you have the Marlin release loaded in Arduino, look for a specific line in the code of the firmware and edit it to increase the maximum temperature limit of the Ender 3.
Search for the following line in your loaded firmware:
#define HEATER_0_MAXTEMP 275
Although it shows 275, the maximum temperature you can dial up to is 260°C since Marlin sets the temperature in the firmware 15°C higher than what you can select manually on the printer.
If you wanted to print at 285°C, you’d need to edit the value to 300°C.
As soon as you’re done, complete the process by connecting the PC with your 3D printer and uploading the firmware to it.
You can also watch the following video if you’re after a more visual explanation of editing your Ender 3’s firmware.
Best High Temperature 3D Printer – 300 Degrees+
The following are some of the best high-temperature 3D printers that you can purchase online.
The Creality Ender 3 S1 Pro is a modern version of the Ender 3 series that incorporates several useful features that users have been requesting.
It has a brand-new nozzle made of brass that can reach temperatures of up to 300°C and is compatible with many types of filaments such as PLA, ABS, TPU, PETG, Nylon, and more.
It has a Spring Steel PEI Magnetic build plate that provides great adhesion for your models, and has a faster heating up time. Another cool feature is the 4.3-inch touch screen, along with the LED light at the top of the 3D printer that shines a light on the build plate.
The Ender 3 S1 Pro also has a dual gear direct drive extruder called the “Sprite” extruder. It has an extrusion force of 80N which ensures smooth feeding when printing with different types of filaments.
You also have the CR-Touch automatic leveling system that can quickly complete leveling without having to do it manually. If your bed needs compensation for an uneven surface, the automatic leveling does exactly that.
The Voxelab Aquila S2 is a 3D printer that can reach temperatures of 300°C. It has a direct extruder design which means you can 3D print flexible filaments with ease. It also has a full metal body that has great resistance and durability.
Some other useful features this machine has is the PEI Steel Plate that is magnetic and flexible so you can bend it to remove models. If you need to 3D print any high temperature materials, this is a great choice to get it done.
The print size is 220 x 220 x 240mm which is a good size on the market. Voxelab also provides users with lifetime technical assistance so if you have any issues, you can get advice to solve it.
How to Fix an Ender 3 Max Temp Error
To fix the MAX TEMP error, you should loosen the nut on the hotend. You’ll need to take the fan shroud off to expose the screw so you can unscrew it with a screwdriver. It is usually tight for users who experience this, but if it is too loose, you would want to tighten it up to fix the MAX TEMP error.
Several users thought their 3D printer might be broken, but this simple fix has helped many people finally solve their issue.
The video below shows a visual illustration of how this is done.
If this doesn’t fix the issue, you might need to get a new set of thermistors or the red wiring for the electric heating element. These can get damaged if you are removing a filament clog.
What is the Max Temperature for PLA?
In terms of 3D printing, the maximum temperature for PLA is around 220-230°C depending on the brand and type of PLA you are using. For PLA 3D printed parts, PLA can usually withstand temperatures of around 55-60°C before it starts to soften and deform, especially under force or pressure.
There are high temperature PLA filaments like the FilaCube HT-PLA+ from Amazon that can withstand temperatures of 85°C, with a printing temperature of 190-230°C.
Some users describe this as the best PLA they have ever used with no contest. They say it has the feel of ABS, but with the flexibility of PLA. You can follow an annealing process which makes your 3D printed parts stronger and more heat-resistant as well.
One experienced user commented on the extrusion of this filament based on temperature and gave some advice to people. You should extrude the filament while changing the temperature and see which temperature has the filament flowing the best.
The finish quality is great and passed some torture tests that he ran.