Trying to get the best settings in Cura for the Ender 3 can be quite challenging, especially if you don’t have a lot of experience with 3D printing.
I decided to write this article to help people who are a little confused on what settings they should be using for their 3D printer, whether they have an Ender 3, Ender 3 Pro, or Ender 3 V2.
Keep reading through this article for some guidance on getting the best Cura settings for your 3D printer.
What is a Good Print Speed for a 3D Printer (Ender 3)?
A good print speed for decent quality and speed usually ranges between 40mm/s and 60mm/s depending on your 3D printer. For the best quality, going down to 30mm/s works well, while for faster 3D prints, you can use a print speed of 100mm/s. Print speeds can differ depending on what material you are using.
Print speed is an important setting in 3D printing that factors in with how long your 3D prints will take overall. It consists of a many speeds of specific sections of your print such as:
- Infill Speed
- Wall Speed
- Top/Bottom Speed
- Support Speed
- Travel Speed
- Initial Layer Speed
- Skirt/Brim Speed
There are also a few more speeds sections under some of these settings where you can get even more precise in controlling print speeds of your parts.
Cura gives you a default Print Speed of 50mm/s and it doesn’t really need to be changed, though when you want to start tweaking settings and get faster prints, this is one that many will adjust.
When you adjust your main Print Speed setting, these other settings will change according to Cura calculations:
- Infill Speed – stays the same as the Print Speed.
- Wall Speed, Top/Bottom Speed, Support Speed – half of your Print Speed
- Travel Speed – defaults at 150mm/s until you go past a Print Speed of 60mm/s. Then goes up by 2.5mm/s for every increase of 1mm/s in Print Speed until it caps out at 250mm/s.
- Initial Layer Speed, Skirt/Brim Speed – defaults at 20mm/s and is not affected by changes in Print Speed
Generally speaking, the slower your print speed, the better the quality of your 3D prints will be.
If you are looking for a 3D print to be higher quality, you can go down to a Print Speed of around 30mm/s, while for a 3D print that you want as quick as possible, you can go up to 100mm/s and beyond in some cases.
When you do increase your print speed to 100mm/s, the quality of your 3D prints can quickly decrease mainly based on vibrations from the movement and weight of the 3D printer parts.
The lighter your printer is, the fewer vibrations (ringing) you’ll get, so even having a heavy glass bed can increase print imperfections from speed.
The way your Print Speed translates to quality definitely depends on your specific 3D printer, your setup, the stability of the frame and surface it’s sitting on, and the type of 3D printer itself.
If you do 3D print at lower speeds, you want to lower your printing temperature accordingly since the material will be under the heat for a longer time. It shouldn’t need too much of an adjustment, but it’s something to keep in mind as you adjust your print speeds.
One test that people do to see the impact of higher speeds on print quality is a Speed Test Tower from Thingiverse.
Here is how the Speed Test Tower looks in Cura.
The cool thing about this is how you can insert scripts after each tower to automatically adjust print speeds as the object prints, so you don’t have to do it manually. It’s a great way to calibrate your speed and see what level of quality you’d be happy with.
Although the values are 20, 40, 60, 80, 100, you can set your own values within the Cura script. The instructions are shown on the Thingiverse page.
What is the Best Printing Temperature for 3D Printing?
The best temperature for 3D printing is based on the filament you are using, which tends to be between 180-220°C for PLA, 230-250°C for ABS and PETG, and between 250-270°C for Nylon. Within these temperature ranges, we can narrow down the best printing temperature by using a temperature tower and comparing quality.
When you purchase your roll of filament, the manufacturer makes our jobs easier by giving us a specific printing temperature range on the box. This means we can find the best printing temperature for our specific material pretty easily.
Some examples below of manufacture printing recommendations are:
- Hatchbox PLA – 180 – 220°C
- Geeetech PLA – 185 – 215°C
- SUNLU ABS – 230 – 240°C
- Overture Nylon – 250 – 270°C
- Priline Carbon Fiber Polycarbonate – 240 – 260°C
- ThermaX PEEK – 375 – 410°C
Do keep in mind that the type of nozzle you are using has an effect on the real temperature that is being produced. For example, a brass nozzle which is the standard for 3D printers is a great conductor of heat, meaning it transfers heat better.
If you switch to a nozzle like a hardened steel nozzle, you’d want to increase your printing temperature by 5-10°C because hardened steel doesn’t transfer heat as well as brass.
Hardened steel is better used for abrasive filaments like Carbon Fiber or glow-in-the-dark filament since it has better durability than brass. For standard filaments like PLA, ABS, and PETG, brass works great.
Once you get that perfect printing temperature for your 3D prints, you should notice a lot more successful 3D prints and fewer print imperfections.
We avoid issues like oozing in 3D prints when using a temperature too high, as well as issues like under-extrusion when you use low temperatures.
Once you get that range, it’s usually a good idea to go right in the middle and start printing, but there is an even better option.
To find the best printing temperature with more accuracy, there is a thing called a temperature tower which allows us to easily compare quality from different printing temperatures.
It looks something like this:
I’d recommend printing the temperature tower directly in Cura, though you can still use a temperature tower from Thingiverse if you want.
Follow the video below by CHEP to get the Cura temperature tower. The title refers to retraction settings in Cura but also goes through the temperature tower part of things.
What is the Best Bed Temperature for 3D Printing?
The best bed temperature for 3D printing is according to the filament you’re using. For PLA, anywhere from 20-60°C works best, while 80-110°C is recommended for ABS as it is a more heat-resistant material. For PETG, a bed temperature between 70-90°C is a great choice.
A heated bed is important for a number of reasons in 3D printing. For starters, it promotes bed adhesion and improves the quality of prints, allowing them to have a better chance of success with printing and even being removed from the build platform better.
In terms of finding the best heat bed temperature, you’ll want to turn to your material and its manufacturer. Let’s take a look at some top-rated filaments on Amazon and their recommended bed temperature.
- Overture PLA – 40 – 55°C
- Hatchbox ABS – 90 – 110°C
- Geeetech PETG – 80 – 90°C
- Overture Nylon – 25 – 50°C
- ThermaX PEEK – 130 – 145°C
Apart from enhancing the quality of your prints, a good bed temperature can take away many print imperfections as well that cause some print failures.
It can help with common print imperfections like elephant’s foot, which is when the first few layers of your 3D print are squashed down.
Decreasing your bed temperature when it is too high is a great solution to this issue, leading to better print quality and more successful prints.
You want to make sure you don’t have your bed temperature too high though because it can cause your filament to not cool down fast enough, leading to a layer that isn’t so sturdy. The next layers ideally want to have a good foundation beneath it.
Sticking within the range of what your manufacturer advises should set you on the path of getting the bed temperature for your 3D prints.
What Are the Best Retraction Distance & Speed Settings?
Retraction settings are when your 3D printer pulls filament back inside the extruder to avoid the melted filament moving out of the nozzle while the print head is moving.
Retraction settings are useful for increasing the quality of prints and to reduce the occurrence of print imperfections like stringing, oozing, blobs, and zits.
Found under the “Travel” section in Cura, Retraction has to be enabled first. After doing so, you’ll be able to adjust Retraction Distance and Retraction Speed.
Best Retraction Distance Setting
Retraction Distance or Length is how far the filament is pulled back in the hot end within the extrusion path. The best retraction setting depends on your specific 3D printer and whether you have a Bowden-style or a Direct Drive extruder.
For Bowden extruders, the Retraction Distance is best set between 4mm-7mm. For 3D printers that use a Direct Drive setup, the recommended Retraction Length range is 1mm-4mm.
The default Retraction Distance value in Cura is 5mm. Reducing this setting would mean that you’re pulling the filament back in the hot end less, while increasing it would simply lengthen how far the filament is pulled back.
An extremely small Retraction Distance would mean that the filament isn’t pushed back enough and would cause string. Similarly, a too high value of this setting could jam or clog your extruder nozzle.
What you can do is begin at the middle of these ranges, depending on what extrusion system you have. For Bowden-style extruders, you can test your prints at a Retraction Distance of 5mm and check how the quality turns out.
An even better way to calibrate your Retraction Distance is by printing a retraction tower in Cura as shown in the video in the previous section. Doing so would drastically increase your chances of getting the best Retraction Distance value for your 3D printer.
Here is the video again so you can follow the retraction calibration steps.
The retraction tower is composed of 5 blocks, each indicating a specific Retraction Distance or Speed value that you set. You can begin printing the tower at 2mm and work your way up with 1mm increments.
After finishing, check yourself which parts of the tower look the highest quality. You can also choose to determine the top 3 and print a retraction tower one more time using those 3 best values, then using more precise increments.
Best Retraction Speed Setting
Retraction Speed is simply the speed at which the filament is pulled back in the hot end. Right alongside Retraction Length, Retraction Speed is a fairly important setting that’s needed to be looked at.
For Bowden extruders, the best Retraction Speed is between 40-70mm/s. If you have a Direct Drive extruder setup, the recommended Retraction Speed range is 20-50mm/s.
Generally speaking, you want to have a Retraction Speed as high as possible without grinding the filament in the feeder. When you move the filament at a higher speed, your nozzle stays still for less time, resulting in smaller blobs/zits and print imperfections.
When you set your Retraction Speed too high though, the force that is produced by your feeder is so high that the feeder wheel can grind into the filament, reducing the success rate of your 3D prints.
The default Retraction Speed value in Cura is 45mm/s. This is a good place to start, but you can get the best Retraction Speed for your 3D printer by printing a retraction tower, just like in Retraction Distance.
Only this time, you would be optimizing the speed instead of distance. You can start at 30mm/s and go up using 5mm/s increments to print the tower.
After finishing the print, you would again get the 3 best-looking Retraction Speed values and print another tower using those values. After proper inspection, you’ll find the best Retraction Speed for your 3D printer.
What is the Best Layer Height for a 3D Printer?
The best layer height for a 3D printer is between 25% to 75% of your nozzle diameter. For a balance between speed and detail, you want to go with the default 0.2mm Layer Height in Cura. For increased resolution and detail, you can use a 0.1mm Layer Height for quality results.
Layer height is simply the thickness of each layer of filament in millimeters. It is the setting which is most important when balancing the quality of your 3D models with the printing time.
The thinner each layer of your model is, the more detail and accuracy the model will have. With filament 3D printers, you tend to have a maximum layer height of either 0.05mm or 0.1mm for resolution.
Since we tend to use a range of 25-75% of our nozzle diameter for layer height, we would need to change out the standard 0.4mm nozzle if you want to go down to those 0.05mm layer heights, to a 0.2mm nozzle.
If you do choose to use such a small layer height, you should expect a 3D print to take several times longer than usual.
When you think about how many layers are extruded for a 0.2mm Layer Height vs a 0.05mm Layer Height, it would need 4 times as many layers, which means 4 times the overall printing time.
Cura has a default Layer Height of 0.2mm for a 0.4mm nozzle diameter which is a safe 50%. This layer height offers a great balance of good detail and fairly fast 3D prints, though you can adjust it depending on your desired outcome.
For models like statues, busts, characters, and figures, it makes sense to use a lower layer height to capture the vital details that make these models look realistic.
For models like a headphone stand, a wall mount, a vase, holders of some kind, a 3D printed clamp, and so on, you are better off using a larger layer height like 0.3mm and above to improve printing time rather than unnecessary details.
What is a Good Line Width for 3D Printing?
A good Line Width for 3D printing is between 0.3-0.8mm for a standard 0.4mm nozzle. For improved part quality and high details, a low Line Width value such as 0.3mm is the one to go for. For better bed adhesion, thicker extrusions, and strength, a large Line Width value like 0.8mm works well.
Line Width is simply how wide your 3D printer prints each line of filament. It is dependent on the diameter of the nozzle and dictates how high quality your part will be in the X and Y direction.
Most people use a 0.4mm nozzle diameter and subsequently set their Line Width to 0.4mm, which also happens to be the default value in Cura.
The minimum Line Width value you can use is 60% while the maximum is around 200% of your nozzle diameter. A smaller Line Width value of 60-100% makes thinner extrusions and possibly produces parts with better accuracy.
However, such parts may not have the most strength. For that, you can try increasing your Line Width to around 150-200% of your nozzle for models that will play a more mechanical and functional role.
You can tweak your Line Width according to your use case to get better results in terms of either strength or quality. Another situation where increasing the Line Width helps is when there are gaps in your thin walls.
This is definitely a trial and error type of setting where you’ll want to try printing out the same model a few times while adjusting the Line Width. It’s always good to understand what changes in your print settings actually make in the final models.
What is a Good Flow Rate for 3D Printing?
You want your Flow rate to stay at 100% in most cases because an adjustment in this setting is usually compensation for an underlying problem that needs to be fixed. An increase in Flow rate is usually for a short-term fix like a clogged nozzle, as well as under or over extrusion. A usual range of 90-110% is used.
Flow or Flow Compensation in Cura is depicted by a percentage and is the actual amount of filament that is extruded from the nozzle. A good Flow rate is 100% which is the same as the default Cura value.
The main reason one would adjust the flow rate is to make up for an issue in the extrusion train. An example here would be a clogged nozzle.
Increasing the Flow Rate to about 110% could help if you’re experiencing under-extrusion. If there’s some sort of a block in the extruder nozzle, you can get more filament to push out and penetrate the clog with a higher Flow value.
On the other side, decreasing your Flow Rate to about 90% can help with over-extrusion which is when an excessive amount of filament is extruded from the nozzle, leading to a host of print imperfections.
The video below shows a fairly simple way to calibrate your Flow Rate, which consists of 3D printing a simple open cube and measuring the walls with a pair of Digital Calipers.
I’d recommend going with a simple option like the Neiko Electronic Caliper with 0.01mm precision.
Under Shell settings in Cura, you should set a Wall Thickness of 0.8mm and a Wall Line Count of 2, as well as a Flow of 100%.
Another thing you can do you calibrate your Flow is to print a Flow Test tower in Cura. You can print it under 10 minutes so it’s a pretty easy test to find the best Flow Rate for your 3D printer.
You can start at 90% Flow and work your way up to 110% using 5% increments. Here’s what the Flow Test tower in Cura looks like.
All things considered, Flow is more of a temporary fix to print problems rather than a permanent one. This is why it’s important to deal with the actual cause behind under or over-extrusion.
In that case, you might want to calibrate your extruder altogether.
I’ve written a complete guide on How to Calibrate Your 3D Printer so be sure to check that out to read all about adjusting your E-steps, and much more.
What are the Best Infill Settings for a 3D Printer?
The best Infill Settings are based on your use case. For strength, high durability, and mechanical function, I recommend an Infill Density between 50-80%. For improved printing speed and not much strength, people usually go with 8-20% Infill Density, though some prints can handle 0% infill.
Infill Density is simply how much material and volume is inside of your prints. It’s one of the key components for improved strength and printing time that you can adjust, so it’s a good idea to learn about this setting.
The higher your infill Density, the stronger your 3D prints will be, though it brings diminishing returns in strength the higher the percentage used. For example, an Infill Density of 20% to 50% won’t bring the same strength improvements as 50% to 80%.
You can save plenty of material by using the optimal amount of infill, as well as decrease printing time.
It’s important to keep in mind that Infill Densities work very differently depending on the Infill Pattern you are using. A 10% Infill Density with the Cubic pattern is going to be a lot different from 10% Infill Density with the Gyroid Pattern.
As you can see with this Superman model, a 10% Infill Density with the Cubic pattern takes 14 hours and 10 minutes to print, while the Gyroid pattern at 10% takes 15 hours and 18 minutes.
As you can see, the Gyroid infill pattern looks denser than the Cubic pattern. You can see how dense your model’s infill will be by clicking on the “Preview” tab after you slice your model.
There will also be a “Preview” button next to the “Save to Disk” button on the bottom right.
When you use too little infill though, the structure of the model can suffer because above layers don’t get the best support from below. When you think of your infill, it is technically a supporting structure for layers above.
If your Infill Density creates many gaps in the model when you see the preview of the model, you can get print failures, so make sure your model is well-supported from the inside if needed.
If you’re printing thin walls or spherical shapes, you can even use 0% Infill Density since there will be no gaps to bridge.
What is the Best Infill Pattern in 3D Printing?
The best Infill Pattern for strength is the Cubic or Triangle Infill Pattern since they provide great strength in multiple directions. For quicker 3D prints, the best Infill Pattern would be Lines. Flexible 3D prints can benefit from using the Gyroid Infill Pattern.
Infill Patterns are a way to define the structure which fills up your 3D printed objects. There are specific use cases for different patterns out there, whether for flexibility, strength, speed, a smooth top surface, and so on.
The default Infill Pattern in Cura is the Cubic pattern which is a great balance of strength, speed, and overall print quality. It is considered the best infill pattern by many 3D printer users.
Let’s now take a look at some of the best Infill Patterns in Cura.
Grid produces two sets of lines that are perpendicular to each other. It’s one of the most commonly used Infill Pattern right alongside Lines and has impressive traits such as great strength and giving you a smoother top surface finish.
Being one of the best Infill Patterns, Lines forms parallel lines and creates a decent top surface finish with satisfactory strength. You can use this Infill Pattern for an all-rounder use case.
It does happen to be weaker in the vertical direction for strength but is great for faster printing.
The Triangles pattern is a good option if you’re looking for high strength and shear resistance in your models. However, at a higher Infill Density, the level of strength does drop since the flow gets interrupted due to intersections.
One of the best qualities of this Infill Pattern is that it has equal strength in every horizontal direction, but it does require more top layers for an even top surface since the top lines have relatively long bridges.
The Cubic pattern is a great structure that creates cubes and is a 3-dimensional pattern. They generally have equal strength in all directions and have a good amount of strength overall. You can get pretty good top layers with this pattern, which is great for quality.
The Concentric pattern forms a ring-type pattern that’s closely parallel to the walls of your prints. You can use this pattern when printing flexible models to create fairly strong prints.
The Gyroid pattern forms wave-like shapes throughout the Infill of your model and is highly recommended when printing flexible objects. Another great use for the Gyroid pattern is with water-soluble support materials.
Additionally, Gyroid has a good balance of strength and shear resistance.
What is the Best Shell/Wall Settings for 3D Printing?
Wall settings or Wall Thickness is simply how thick the outer layers of a 3D printed object will be in millimeters. It doesn’t just mean the exterior of the whole 3D print, but every part of the print in general.
Wall settings are one of the most crucial factors for how strong your prints will be, even more so then infill in many cases. Larger objects benefit the most by having a higher Wall Line Count and overall Wall Thickness.
The best wall settings for 3D printing is to have a Wall Thickness of at least 1.6mm for reliable strength performance. Wall Thickness is rounded up or down to the nearest multiple of the Wall Line Width. Using a higher Wall Thickness will improve the strength of your 3D prints significantly.
With the Wall Line Width, it is known that slightly reducing it to below your nozzle diameter can benefit the strength of your 3D prints.
Although you will be printing thinner lines on the wall, there is an overlapping aspect with adjacent wall lines which pushes aside the other walls to the optimal location. It has an effect of making the walls fuse together better, leading to more strength in your prints.
Another benefit of reducing your Wall Line Width is allowing your nozzle to produce more accurate details, especially on the outer walls.
What Are the Best Initial Layer Settings in 3D Printing?
There are many initial layer settings that are adjusted specifically to improve your first layers, which are the foundation of your model.
Some of these settings are:
- Initial Layer Height
- Initial Layer Line Width
- Printing Temperature Initial Layer
- Initial Layer Flow
- Initial Fan Speed
- Top/Bottom Pattern or Bottom Pattern Initial Layer
For the most part, your initial layer settings should be done to a pretty good standard by just using the default settings in your slicer, but you can definitely make some adjustments to slightly improve your success rate when it comes to 3D printing.
Whether you have an Ender 3, Prusa i3 MK3S+, Anet A8, Artillery Sidewinder and so on, you can benefit from getting this right.
The first thing you want to do before even getting the best initial layer settings is to make sure you have a nice flat bed and it is leveled correctly. Remember to always level your bed when it is hot because beds tend to warp when heated.
Follow the video below for some good bed leveling practices.
Regardless of whether you get these settings perfect, if you don’t have those two things done properly you significantly reduce the chances of print success at the start of your prints and even during, since prints can get knocked off a few hours in.
Initial Layer Height
The Initial Layer Height setting is simply the Layer Height your printer uses for the very first layer of your print. Cura defaults this to 0.2mm for a 0.4mm nozzle which works well in most cases.
The best Initial Layer Height ranges from 100-200% of your Layer Height. For a standard 0.4mm nozzle, an Initial Layer Height of 0.2mm is good, but if you need some extra adhesion, you can go up to 0.4mm. You may have to adjust your Z-offset accordingly, to account for the increase in material extruded.
When you do use a larger Initial Layer Height, how accurate you were with your bed leveling isn’t as important because you have more room for error. It can be a good move for beginners to use these larger Initial Layer Heights to get great adhesion.
Another benefit of doing this is assisting in reducing the presence of any defects that you may have on your build plate such as indents or marks, so it can actually improve the quality of the bottom of your prints.
Initial Layer Line Width
The best Initial Layer Width is around 200% of your nozzle diameter to give you increased bed adhesion. A high Initial Layer Width value helps compensate for any bumps and pits on the print bed and provides you a solid initial layer.
The default Initial Layer Line Width in Cura is 100% and this works just fine in many cases, but if you are having adhesion problems, it is a good setting to try adjusting.
Many 3D printer users do use a higher Initial Layer Line Width with good success so it’s definitely worth trying.
You don’t want this percentage to be too thick though because it can cause an overlap with the next set of extruded layers.
This is why you should keep your Initial Line Width between 100-200% for increased bed adhesion. These numbers have seemed to work great for people.
Printing Temperature Initial Layer
The best Printing Temperature Initial Layer is usually higher than the rest of the layers’ temperature and can be achieved by increasing the nozzle temperature by 5°C increments according to the filament you have. A high temperature for the first layer makes the material stick to the build platform much better.
Depending on what material you are using, you’ll be using a different set of temperatures, though the Printing Temperature Initial Layer will default as the same as your Printing Temperature setting.
Similar to the above settings, you don’t usually have to adjust this setting to get successful 3D prints, but it can be useful to have that extra control on the first layer of a print.
Initial Layer Speed
The best Initial Layer Speed is around 20-25mm/s since printing the initial layer slowly will give more time to your filament to melt thereby providing you a great first layer. The default value in Cura is 20mm/s and this works great for most 3D printing situations.
Speed has a relation with temperature in 3D printing. When you’ve properly dialed in the settings of both, especially for the first layer, your prints are bound to come out exceptionally well.
Bottom Layer Pattern
You can actually change the bottom layer pattern to create a lovely looking bottom surface on your models. The picture below from Reddit shows the Concentric infill pattern on an Ender 3 and a glass bed.
The specific setting in Cura is called the Top/Bottom Pattern, as well as the Bottom Pattern Initial Layer, but you’ll have to either search for it or enable it in your visibility settings.
How High Can the Ender 3 Print?
The Creality Ender 3 has a build volume of 235 x 235 x 250, which is a Z-axis measurement of 250mm so that is the highest in can print in terms of Z-height. The dimensions for the Ender 3 including the spool holder is 440 x 420 x 680mm. The enclosure dimensions for the Ender 3 are 480 x 600 x 720mm.
How Do You Set Up Cura on a 3D Printer (Ender 3)?
Setting up Cura is fairly easy on a 3D printer. The famous slicer software even has an Ender 3 profile on it among many other 3D printers to get users started with their machine as soon as possible.
After installing it on your PC from the official Ultimaker Cura website, you’ll go straight to the interface, and click on “Settings” near the top of the window.
As more options are revealed, you’ll have to click on “Printer,” and follow up by clicking on “Add Printer.”
A window will appear as soon as you click on “Add Printer.” You’ll now have to select “Add a non-networked printer” since the Ender 3 does support have Wi-Fi connectivity. After that, you’ll have to scroll down, click on “Other,” find Creality, and click on Ender 3.
After choosing the Ender as your 3D printer, you’ll click on “Add” and continue to the next step where you can adjust the machine settings. Make sure the build volume (220 x 220 x 250mm) is entered correctly in the stock Ender 3 profile.
The default values are bang on for this popular 3D printer, but if you see something you’d like to change, do it, and then click on “Next.” That should finalize setting up Cura for you.
The rest of the work is nothing but a breeze. All you have to do is choose an STL file off of Thingiverse that you want to print, and slice it using Cura.
By slicing the model, you’re getting instructions for your 3D printer in the form of G-Code. A 3D printer reads this format and starts to print right away.
After you’ve sliced the model and have dialed in the settings, you’ll need to insert the MicroSD card that comes with your 3D printer into your PC.
The next step is to grab your sliced model and get it on your MicroSD card. The option to do that appears after you’ve sliced your model.
After getting the G-Code file onto your MicroSD card, insert the card into your Ender 3, rotate the control knob to find “Print from SD” and begin your print.
Before beginning, do make sure that you’re giving your nozzle and print bed enough time to heat up. Otherwise, you’ll run into loads of print imperfections and related issues.